Day 3: Backpacking from LYV to Ililouette Falls and Glacier Point

I slept much better on night two than the first. In my mind I had a plan for leaving early, either hiking back to Glacier Point on what would be a difficult climb, or descending down the Mist Trail into the valley, to take a shuttle back (the easier way).

I spent a good portion of the morning getting my pack organized, so everything was easy to reach. I wanted to at least try to make it back, of my own accord. I knew it would be a huge challenge, with my uncomfortable backpack though. I knew I could do it, but it would be tough.

I headed off down the John Muir Trail around 9 am, a bit later than I planned.

I made my way back to Nevada Falls, which sits below Liberty Cap, another massive granite dome. There were some pit toilets here as well, and a ton of people hiking around. The valley was getting crowded with it being Friday.

I stopped for a few minutes to admire Nevada Falls and traded photos with another group there. I had resolved to hike back to Glacier Point, however much of a struggle it would be, and just put one foot in front of the other, even if it took the entire day. I was ready to head home and leave the Sierra, at least for now. 

The way up from Nevada Falls from the Clark Trail along the Panorama Trail, there was so much beauty along the climb. It grew tougher, the more the temperatures warmed.

I was really beginning to get overheated by noon, and the climb became hellish at times, especially as the afternoon sun warmed the valley. All the beautiful nature along the way made it all worth it somehow. 

I decided to stop and check out Panorama Point, another of the scenic promontories found throughout Yosemite. There was quite the view from here. With the sun beating down, I chose not to linger too long here, since I was nearing Illilouette Creek, where I would take an official lunch break, and fill my water, by the creek while I sat in the shade.

Lunchtime

I parked myself, across the bridge on a shady granite rock, and proceeded to prepare my lunch as planned. It would be Pad Thai soup, which was something I had never had before. I had used the entire peanut butter packet, and most of the noodles from my Backpackers Pantry Pad Thai (serves 2). I had some noodles left, so I combined them with some dehydrated eggs, chomps beef stick pieces, and a packet of chicken bone broth. It was fine, but given how hot it was, a better choice could have been something cold. Since I did not have protein bars, only fruit, crackers, and jerky, I needed something more. Soup would have been great on a chilly morning at say Sunrise High Country Camp, near Tuolumne Meadows though.

After my Sawyer was done filtering my water, I filled up my water bottles, rested a bit more by Illilouette Creek, and ate my lunch. I knew I needed to stretch out and rest up for the climb ahead.

The Final Stretch

After a needed rest break, it was close to 3 pm, and the climb intensified, as I ascended countless short switchbacks in the hot sun, as it beat down on me. I took advantage of each and every shady spot along the way. I wanted to pass out since I felt so completely out of breath. 

Overheated

Heat raises your heart rate, and there is no escaping that. The valley was supposedly about 90 degrees this morning. Up in the high country, it would hover around 70. But along this steady upward climb, I was getting baked.

As I gazed out at Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls and the valley below, I stayed in gratitude despite feeling like I might pass out.

Butterflies

I had seen many butterflies and moths along the trail throughout my trek through Yosemite, such as the Western Tiger Swallowtail, Alpine White, Painted Lady, Monarch, as well as this Edith’s Checkerspot (my best guess).

Sooty Grouse

As I made my way to Glacier Point, every switchback, and every 50 feet I felt like I needed a break. I noticed some Sooty Grouse and its’ baby chick along the trail. There are many types of different Grouse in the United States and California. I had also seen a few on the way to Mount Whitney, years prior.

Rest Breaks

I stopped many times on the way to Glacier Point, over the last 1/2 mile or so, and knew was not ready to go further, at least with a heavy pack. I finally made it there and knew I had only one choice if I were to make it back to the car. I regretted parking at Sentinel and adding an extra 2.5 miles. At this point, I did not have it in me to backpack another 2.5 miles without a significant rest. 

The Bear Box

I went in search of the bear boxes, the rangers suggested I use for this hike, and after searching for about 15 minutes or so, located one. I stashed my pack in the bear box, grabbed a few items, and wasted no time, beginning the hike back to my car. I was in a daze, and about 5 minutes down the trail, realized I did not even have my car key. That’s where my head was at.

Exhausted

I was experiencing complete exhaustion, so much so that even hiking with just a water bottle, and a few things in a day pack uphill, I had to stop to take breaks. I had pushed myself to the limit again. Sure I kept comparing myself to other people, whose limits are much more. That certainly did not help. I had to revert back to how far I had come. There was a time in my life when I struggled to hike up hills without running out of breath. I told myself I was just overheated and would be just fine. One foot in front of the other was my mantra. My only respite was this section was in the shade, for which I was grateful.

A Welcome Sight

I was never so grateful to see Sentinel Dome again, to pass it, and shortly afterward be back by my car. I quickly snatched my garbage bag of stashed extra food and scented items from the bear bin and drove directly to Glacier Point to get my pack containing most of my precious backpacking gear. I successfully retrieved it after sitting in a traffic jam for some time.

The Right Backpack

I knew with a different pack, I would have a different experience. The pack played such a huge role in my hike’s success. I had two backpacks before, that were ultralight. Maybe I just need to stick to what works, my Zpacks Arc Air was reallya dream to hike with. Sure, it broke on my PCT hike, but it was repaired quickly by the company. My Gossamer Gear ultralight pack I used on the TCT and to hike Mt San Gorgonio, did not fit right, but was nowhere as painful to hike with as the Osprey Tempest Pro. I so much wanted to love it, but knew it was not the one. I had more pack research to do when I got home. I love backpacking, but the backpack itself, can make it or break it for you. The thing is, most people may never even know this, if they are fitted for the wrong pack, and think they just don’t like backpacking. It could just be the pack was all wrong.

Heading Home

I knew I was too exhausted to hike one air mile to Dewey Point, or up McGurk Meadow, or any other spots nearby, to get some rest before a long drive back. So I headed south towards the Wawona exit of the park, and the town of Coarsegold.

Ice Cream

The only thing on my mind was ice cream. It’s funny how our brains work. I guess I needed a reward for all that pain and suffering I put myself through, like when you’re recovering from an illness in the hospital. We all have to grow up at some point in our lives, but as you live, you’re forced to grow in wisdom too, not just in age.

Reflections

I had tried to stay grateful along my trek, but with one issue after another, that was a challenge. Though I felt broken at times, and defeated, I knew I was actually made stronger, if only in my ability to listen to God, not to hubris (pride). Bruce Lee was one who mentioned having “no limits.” 

There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them.

– Bruce Lee

I agree with this saying, that you must keep going, even if you are just walking and never going up or down. You must keep going, to go beyond where you stand in the moment. But to say there are “no limits,” is almost like saying that you’re all-powerful, like God. No human being can ever have the limitless power of God. Some challenges we place upon ourselves such as climbing up Half Dome can be the ultimate display of one’s hubris or they can just be a walk in the park. I guess it is all in the way you see things, and what the meaning of the climb is for you. I am grateful I listened and decided to stand down and save that climb for another day. Letting go, and letting God handle it, is the way I handle challenging situations. I just have faith he will never leave me, and he was right there with me, gripping those cables with me on Half Dome, telling me to go back down before I fell down. Until next time, Yosemite.


Even when we feel like we are praying, studying the word of God, and seemingly on the right path, hubris creeps in. I felt like I could do anything I put my mind to, and that God would carry me through. Though he most certainly did carry me through many struggles I would face on this trip, it was not without struggles and difficulties. 

Leave No Trace

Just be sure to come prepared and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep the wilderness pristine for future hikers.

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I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!

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