A Return to the High Sierra Trail
This summer I was able to venture once again towards the Sierra. It was my first time camping in Sequoia National Park at Lodgepole Campground. It is located at around 7000 feet in elevation, east of the town of Visalia, and the gateway to the Sierra Nevada Mountains. From giant sequoia trees, such as the General Sherman Tree, one of the largest trees in the world by volume, to wild rivers, and raging waterfalls, this park has a bit of something for everyone.
National Parks
I love National Parks like this since it has something for everyone. It’s also a cheap way to have a staycation. I don’t know about you, but inflation is real in 2023. So it’s nice to know that for one small fee, an entire carload of visitors, can enjoy a park like this all together. The park even operates on an honor system, so in other words anyone can visit, regardless of their ability to pay, so nobody will be stopped, from at very least driving on through all this beauty.
The Wilderness
It had been an entire year since I had embarked on what would be one of the longest backpacking treks of my entire life. My partner and I, hiked 80 miles, across the Sierra from Crescent Meadow to Mount Whitney, on the High Sierra Trail during July of 2022. This dynamic mountain range of twisted granite spires, and rounded domes, was more spectacular than anything I could have imagined. So much comes to mind when one thinks about a place like the Sierra. So many of the highest peaks in the United States can be found here. When I was deep in the wilderness last summer, hiking the HST, I never felt like I was lost in the middle of nowhere. I more like I was being called home, and that I belonged there.
Summertime
It was the middle of July in Sequoia National Park, and a peak time to visit National Parks. Tourists were swarmed everywhere when we arrived. I don’t blame them. It was beautiful, just driving on in through the towering trees, with the sunshine glistening down, and flickering as we drove to the trailhead for the High Sierra Trail.
Crescent Meadow
As we approached Crescent Meadow, passing the visitors center, and Giant Forest Museum, the parking areas seemed to all be at capacity. People need nature and the outdoors, so I was not upset seeing so many people, but I was wondering what our chances were going to be like, to find a spot. The bus workers were on strike, so the park’s transit was temporarily suspended.
My 2022 HST Hike
When I hiked the High Sierra Trail in 2022, I originally planned to go alone. That was part of why I wanted to do the trail, to make a trek into the wilderness, on my own terms, with all my own resources, and on my own time. I could hike 2 miles or 20 miles in a day. But things changed and the situation evolved. My partner expressed an interest in joining me on this big adventure. Suddenly this was a slightly different, but no less exciting endeavor. I was so used to hiking alone, but very open to going with him as well. I was ok with going either way, and he was up for the challenge, having grown up near mountains, even though he had only backpacked just once before. What could possibly go wrong? We did a shakedown hike to four peaks, camping near Mount San Gorgonio. Since that was the most challenging local hike I could think of, I figured we would be just fine. Well we made it, all the way to Mount Whitney!
The JMT in 2021
Every serious backpacker in California seems to know about the John Muir Trail, with its two week long, two hundred mile path carved through the highest peaks the Sierra has to offer. It stretches from Happy Isles in Yosemite, all the way to Mount Whitney. Many JMTrs even take the extended route, all the way to Cottonwood Lakes.
Re-Supply
In September of 2021, I had a permit to hike the John Muir Trail. I was so excited, yet nervous to hike it solo. But I was also feeling brave. I was not nervous about it because I was going alone. It was the complicated re-supply that was throwing me off. I had never done that much planning before. It is far easier to stop in a town, or just bring a week’s worth of food, versus plan food drops.
Late in the Game
It was much later in the game, when I was making final decisions about who would re-supply me, how they would do it, and how much food I would need. I had a late entry date, the second week of September, meaning the buses would not be running, so my re-supply was going to be much more of a challenge than it would have been in August.
Pack Mule Service
Just as I was about to hire a pack mule service, and fill up my boxes, my permit was canceled. Fire had engulfed the lower sections of the trail, near my entry point. When I had started planning my hike in early spring, I was only able to find a nobo permit, from Cottonwood Lakes, and so that was where I planned to start. Since then, I know much more about the permit lottery, and quota system, where more permits are released just before the date. Had I known the process, I might have logged on at 8am at a different time, earlier in the season.
Into the Sierra
The first 3/4 of a mile of trail takes you through a dense woodland of sequoias and conifers, past several green meadows.
Fallen giants, hundred year old trees, can be seen thrown like matchsticks, all about.
After a steady climb from the trailhead of several hundred feet, you finally get to look out over a great wide expanse of wilderness, known as the Sierra.
Eagle View
The trail along the cliffside leading to Eagle View begins as a dirt path, and eventually is carved from the rocky cliffside. You continue to climb steadily, until reaching this overlook. This is a great turnaround point, since the views from here are spectacular.
Wildflowers were now in bloom along this stretch of the trail, in shades of yellow, red, orange, blue, and purple.
Applegate’s Paintbrush’s bright red blooms are hard to miss.
Fast Forward
Fast forward two years later, I am back in the Sierra once again. We are now standing at Eagle View, about 3/4 of a mile from the High Sierra Trail’s start, at Crescent Meadow. When I first hiked the High Sierra Trail, I quickly bypassed this scenic vista, since I was very focused on maintaining forward momentum, all the way to our first campsite, which ended up being Nine Mile Creek.
Back on Trail
Being back on trail after a year away from it, I have had so much time to reflect on the whole experience. I would not be hiking far today. I was here to reflect on how far I had come from a year prior. So much had happened. I was back here again with my boyfriend, who hiked the trail alongside me, all the way to Mount Whitney.
Over the Sierra
Just standing here once again, looking out over the Sierra, was a significant moment for us. It reminded me so much more was in store. Wherever I may roam, the Sierra is always forever calling me back. I hoped this would not be my last time, gazing out over this beautiful mountain range. This is always going to be a special place for me.
Tharps Log
We decided to continue our hike from Eagle Point, back through Tharps Meadow making a stop at Tharp’s Log.
There were several named giant sequoias we would pass by along the way, on what would be a 3 mile round trip loop.
We had already been to Moro Rock, and this short loop was going to be our final stop on this trip to Sequoia National Park.
John Muir
We found our way to Tharp’s Log, a hollowed out log, turned home. According to NPS, the home was constructed in 1861, by a man named Hale Tharp.
A Log Cabin
He built this cabin in a tree, because he grazed his cattle here, in the meadows, during summertime, then near Horse Creek, in the foothills, during the winter. He was the first non-Native American to live here in the Giant Forest. Even John Muir once visited Tharp’s Log during his travels, with his mule Brownie, while exploring the High Sierra.
Chimney Tree
After heading along Log Meadow Loop, and visiting Tharp’s Log, we explored further, checking out Chimney Tree, which lived up to its name. It was an expansive cavern inside this once vibrant sequoia. We regretted stepping inside, after noticing how the charred trunk seemed to be hanging on by a thread in one spot, ready to fall at any moment. We finished the tour of this grove with a visit to another massive sequoia named Cleveland.
We found our way back to the trailhead, amongst the giant sequoias one last time, with one final stop, Crescent Meadow. Though I may not hike the entire High Sierra Trail again anytime soon, I would love to backpack into Tamarack Lake via the High Sierra Trail, stay at High Sierra Camp at Bearpaw Meadow, and most definitely make the 20 mile trek to Hamilton Lakes again. I had a permit for the Rae Lakes Loop this year, and sadly it was canceled. I am hoping for better luck next year.
Yosemite Calls
Time was ticking, and we planned to head further north, towards Yosemite National Park. We had a feeling, now was the time to see the waterfalls there, in all their glory. If they were flowing anywhere as well as Tokopah Falls was, it was going to be a sight to see. As tough as it was to leave all this beauty, there was still so much more in store.
Until next time, High Sierra Trail.
Leave No Trace
Just be sure to come prepared and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep the wilderness pristine for future hikers.
Posted July 11th 2023 to serafinahikes.com
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I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!
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Disclaimer: The work on this blog is my opinion and my opinion alone and I am not responsible for the outcome if someone were to apply these thoughts to their own life. All text and photography copyright 2023 by Serafina, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers’ usage of the ideas and opinions presented in the blog, are at their own risk. Be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, surfing, walking, cooking, and other activities, which may take place indoors or outdoors. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from reading the blog, or partaking in any activity mentioned in the blog. Read the blog, and use its ideas, if you so desire, at your own risk.
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