The South Shore
It feels like I am in the middle of nowhere, as I drive towards the south shore of Long Island on the Meadowbrook Parkway. I turn onto Ocean Parkway crossing a series of low bridges, over the bay, nearing Jones Beach State Park.
On this trip back east, I am revisiting places I remember from childhood. I pass by the beach parking areas of Jones Beach. I eventually approach a large traffic circle, with an ominous looking water tower in the center.
The Water Tower
The Jones Beach Water Tower has always fascinated me on trips to this beach area. It stands 231 feet high, and holds 315,000 gallons of water, drawing water from wells 1100 feet deep in the ground. This area here was designed by a man named Robert Moses. His design for this tower was an ode to the campanile of St. Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.
Jones Beach
As I drive further along this lonely stretch of highway, I pass by the Jones Beach Amphitheatre, where I have attended several concerts. In fact, my first concert ever was here. It was The Bangles. I was only 10 years old, when my mom, and my best friend’s mom, took us to see this popular girl band, to hear songs like Walk Like an Egyptian.
Gilgo
The beach area here has unfortunately taken on a much creepier vibe in recent years, since coming here during childhood. It recently made headlines, as the site of a terrible crime. Up until hearing this unfortunate news, I had always looked on this area quite fondly. As I continue driving down Ocean Parkway, I pass Gilgo Beach.
My Dad surfed here in the 1960’s amongst the first surf pioneers of the area, like Charlie Bunger, who was a surfboard shaper, and a genuinely nice guy, according to my Dad, along with all who knew him.
The Pine Barrens
Today pine barrens near Gilgo Beach are known as the site of a series of tragic murders in what is a beach area, which could otherwise be known simply for its nice waves. It was an unsolved mystery, I never knew about, until just this year, when they finally put it all together, solving who did it. I see many people biking along the path that runs along the parkway, wondering if they know about it, if they now feel safer, or less safe? Within the low growing forest of dwarf pines, is where they found the bodies.
Surfer Vibes
So Gilgo Beach will from this point forward, officially gives off creepy vibes, and no longer just groovy beachy surfer vibes. There are few more beaches here that surfers would frequent around here, such as Oak Beach. I had visited this beach before, only once. It was on another brief visit back east, maybe twenty years ago, when I walked out to the breakers there, in the midst of a squall. It was so windy, and definitely un-surfable then. Today I planned on visiting a beach, much further out of the way, than I had been before.
Fire Island Inlet
My destination today was across the Fire Island Inlet, over the Robert Moses Causeway. In all my years growing up on Long Island, I had never been to Robert Moses State Park. I was not sure why exactly, either. It sits on the western tip of a long barrier island that is Fire Island National Seashore. To reach it I would drive over the Great South Bay, over a series of several bridges, intersecting small islands.
Robert Moses
I arrived at Field 5, which is the closest parking area to the lighthouse, and the only way to access Fire Islands west side, on foot. After 4pm on weekdays and after 6pm on weekends, the parking is free. But I had arrived an hour too early for the free parking, so I paid my $10 without hesitation. It felt like a small price to pay to visit a National Seashore, and a lighthouse.
A Summer Afternoon
It was fitting I arrived in the late afternoon, around the same time I always did, in childhood. My mom always took us to Jones Beach after 4pm, to avoid the fees. It was cooler then, and the crowds had dispersed too. It was just more peaceful at this time of the day. We would swim, walk on the boardwalk, and sometimes even play shuffleboard. I remember my beach life fondly. It was part of what shaped me into a lifetime beach goer, and surfer.
Fire Island
I was finally in Robert Moses State Park, on a stretch of beach, I always wondered about. It sits on a sandbar, on the western edge of Fire Island, a barrier island. Being the weekend, it is still very crowded in the parking lot, but I managed to find a spot quickly. Summertime late afternoons at the beach are when crowds generally disperse. I decided I would start with a beach walk, heading to the next town over, Kismet. I had heard all kinds of things about Fire Island, and its gay party scene, with nightly drag shows. But I was not sure if any of it was true. I had to see for myself what it was really like there.
A Beach Hike
I decided I would start with a beach walk, heading to the next town over, Kismet. I had no real reason to hike specifically to this town, other than the name sort of draws me in, and it was closest to Robert Moses, within walking distance. That is all relative, since I like walking more than most. A five mile walk is a lot for non-hikers. Fire Island has lots of small enclaves strewn across it, and I had not been to any of them. I had only been to Watch Hill, to a campground, only just once, in childhood.
Walking to Kismet
I always dreamed of visiting the small towns of Fire Island. This is an expansive barrier island, or sandbar, on Long Island’s South Shore. One must arrive here by boat, or on foot, after driving over the Robert Moses Causeway, into Robert Moses State Park, with adjoins Fire Island National Seashore, on its west side.
Over the Dunes
After an hour or so of hiking, I trod up and over the dune, along a wooden pathway, reaching the narrow streets of Kismet.
At first glance it looks like every other east coast beach community. But the streets here were more like pathways, than those designed for traffic. Some paved, and some just dirt.
A Car Free Zone
There were bicycles parked everywhere similar to places like Holland. The biggest thing you could drive here would be a golf cart, which so happens to be the only possible motorized form of transport in these small island towns. These golf carts, mostly run on batteries, and are electric powered.
With all the streets being trails, it is very hiker, and pedestrian friendly.
The town begins on the bay side, stretching about halfway across the island to the ocean. A generous swath of sandy beach, and a dune, not more than a few feet high, protects the town from the forces of the Atlantic.
I made my way through the narrow corridors between the beach houses, eventually reaching the bay, the side of the island where the ferry dock is, and most visitors arrive. I was expecting some kind of party going on. Again it was similar to every other beach community I had been to.
Here I found eateries, and a marina. People were hanging around throughout the bayfront, since this was the peak of summer. Everyone was in typical beach attire, some in flip flops, some barefoot, including the one police officer, who was standing there in a pair of shorts.
Downtown Kismet
The main event seemed to be a large open air restaurant with a yellow awning, right by the ferry dock. It had a generous outdoor patio, and a stage with live music. People seemed to be having a good time here on a Saturday night. I had come during the busiest time of year, in August, and on a weekend.
It was close to dinnertime, around 6pm, so I thought for a moment about grabbing a bite to eat. But instead I continued on with my tour, passing up Kismet’s scant offerings. I counted three restaurants total. I debated for just a moment, about getting ice cream, since what is better on a warm summer day than that? But I decided it was time to carry on with the tour. I had after all walked there, and it was just two hours until sunset.
Kismet loves their veterans. So far this is seeming like a fairly patriotic town, and I am all for that!
The Harbor
I continued my tour de Kismet continuing along the boat docks, where people were congregating.
There was a wooden bench sitting on the farthest dock, and a couple were sitting there, perhaps waiting for the sunset, with what was the possibly best seat in the house, overlooking the bay.
Looking out across the Great South Bay I could spot motorized watercraft darting back and forth across the bay, creating small wakes, which would proceed to slosh against the boat dock.
I continued on, diving back into the narrow streets of Kismet, not sure what else I would find, or uncover, on my ever so brief tour.
Beach Cottage Life
I had happily been documenting the beach cottages, some classic, some modern, some quirky. Sometimes the thing that made a house stand out was the lawn art.
Other times it was the sheer numbers of bicycles piled in front.
Non-motorized transit or going on foot is the main way to see this island. There is something to admire about a little experiment in coastal living like that which is Kismet.
Self Reliance
An islander’s way of life strongly relies on life’s essentials being brought in by boat. All the boats use diesel fuel. Every boater, who lives on their boat at least, relies on solar panels, and also diesel fuel. People mainly arrive on Fire Island by boat. So it would be tough to ever live in a way that is considered to be green, or sustainable on an island like this. Many people have generators here, and solar panels. You need those things after storms like Hurricane Sandy.
Dirty Greens
I have always been a fan of that which is truly green and environmental. Green energy is partially a myth though. There are methods of generating one’s own power and ways of living off the land in the modern era. Some are green, and labor intensive. Most ways of doing so are not usually sustainable. The majority of people consider solar power to be green. The mining of the substances to create solar panels uses fossil fuels, and they arrive on trucks, powered by fossil fuels. The components of electric batteries includes several minerals and metals, which are mined in part by slaves. Along with these labor abuses, mining of lithium also contaminates groundwater. So I don’t see it as a solution. Pedal power yes, battery power no.
Retiree’s Paradise
As I walked through Kismet I wondered what it would be like to be a retired person here, like so many walking around. It was a slow pace of life, far removed from most of the annoyances of modern civilization. I don’t think I would miss big box chain stores, or sirens going by.
I start to think I could see myself in a place like this, living out my last days as a beach bum.
This one has just about everything you could want.
Island Life
Living on an island is like living as you would aboard a vessel. You are somewhat off the grid. You depend on what you bring along with you, similar to hiking, and backpacking. Your success living on the island is in direct proportion to your level of preparedness. Nobody is coming to save you, at least right away. You’re on your own. That’s how island life feels. It takes a hardy type of folk to retreat to these types of windswept surroundings, and be self-sufficient, along with resourceful.
A Hurricane Party
I am sure a few people threw a party, just before Hurricane Sandy blazed a path through the area. But in the aftermath of it, nobody was celebrating here on Fire Island. The hurricane created new waterways, wiped out coveted real estate, and left damage in its wake. Still the locals did not abandon their little out of the way paradise. They stuck it out, as they have for decades through thick and thin, through endless storms, and ever shifting sandbars. New inlets formed, as did a new resilience in the residents here.
American Flags
American flags line all the streets, and adorn most of the homes. You just know the sense of freedom is alive and well here, more than most places I have set foot on in recent times.
The flags are a testament to the free spirited types who live here, who value their freedom to be themselves.
I love this country, so seeing so many flags was a welcome sight.
Freedom to Be Yourself
Being free to be yourself is the essence of what our country stands for. Our constitution protects all faiths, and all people equally. I believe it’s important to pledge allegiance not to a party, but to our flag, and to keep our constitution intact. That’s all we have keeping us free. Read the Constitution and Bill of Rights here. We are free and this is why we are free.
The Dunes
I trod back over the dunes, past the east coast style beach fences holding them back, of skinny wooden slats, and wire.
I continued back across the wide sandy beach toward the shoreline, following it back toward Robert Moses State Park.
The sun would set within the next two hours, and I wanted to give myself enough time.
As I walked along, the foamy ocean tide washed over my feet. It was just the right temperature, and in the 70’s, so I knew I had to go for a swim.
The Atlantic
The smell of the North Atlantic Ocean is so much stronger than that of the Pacific Ocean, where I live close to now. The ocean back east has this mysterious dark brown color, and is in a constant state of churn. It may not be very inviting to most visitors, unless you grew up around here. It is just so familiar, and comforting to me. Everything about being here at sunset reminded me of home, and of my childhood, even though I had never set foot on this particular beach until this day.
An Afternoon Swim
I stopped to take a dip in the ocean a few times, but I did not go far out. The slope of the beach here, and the rip currents, could easily suck you out. Even though I swim and surf, I decided to just go up to my waist for today. I was, after all, leaving the next day, so I had to swim in the same ocean I grew up with, immersing myself in it one more time. Who knows when I would visit these barrier islands again.
Looking at the Bright Side
My next stop was the towering lighthouse in the distance, sitting along the Great South Bay.
A series of sandy paths and boardwalks took me nearer to the lighthouse.
I walked towards the bay, amongst the pine barrens, and thickets, home to deer, and deer ticks.
There were native juniper trees growing among the pines.
I stayed on the path, knowing Lyme disease is nothing to be messed with, as I hiked around the lighthouse, exploring the area.
The Lighthouse
This lighthouse is the oldest on Fire Island, and one of the oldest on the east coast.
It has a first order Fresnel Lens. I gazed up at its beautiful tall tower, which is currently under renovation.
The area was damaged during Hurricane Sandy, and is still recovering. Even this tall tower of brick and mortar, standing for well over a hundred years, can succumb to the elements, if not cared for. I have always been fascinated by old lighthouses, and the stories of lighthouse keepers.
You can learn more of the history of the light here.
Women Lighthouse Keepers
Not necessarily at this lighthouse, but across the United States, there have been many women who were keepers of the light in history. I know if I went back in time, that is a job I would sign up for. I love hiking, and you would have to be in good shape to have that job, hiking up all those stairs.
But that’s not the only reason I would sign up. As someone who is very self-motivated, and does things solo a lot, I would be up for the challenge of working alone, unassisted, problem-solving as I went along. It would be very exciting, along with being a huge responsibility, in guiding the ships into safety.
The Boardwalk
I walked along the wooden boardwalks, making my way back to the parking area of Robert Moses.
The sun was setting in about an hour, and I still had a 2.5 hour drive back to where I was staying, in upstate New York.
Along the way there were benches to watch the sunset. But for now I just had to keep moving. I had not been to Long Island in about four years. I knew I would not be back here again for a long time, and maybe never. I don’t have many reasons to be here, other than to reminisce. I headed out of the parking area of Robert Moses State Park, passing the old Coast Guard Station, and continued over the Robert Moses Causeway across the Great South Bay.
Long Island has changed in many ways, since I moved away years ago, and in some ways not at all. But the smell of the salty sea air, the sand dunes, the particular texture of the grains of sand between my toes, and the beautiful landscape of the south shore, are just as I remembered them being, when I left.
It was a beautiful sunset, heading over the causeway. Until next time Fire Island.
What is Lyme Disease?
It is caused by deer ticks. You know you were it by a tick if you get that famous red ring, the telltale sign of Lyme disease. You can actually get it whether you get the ring or not.
Even sitting on the sand, near the grass, you can easily get this Lyme disease, characterized by a red ring, with a dot in the center.
A Forever Illness
This is a disease that never does actually go away. People will take Doxycycline for a month, to rid themselves of it. The disease can cause lingering problems, such as arthritis, and in others more devastating things. . It mimics so many other health problems. It can affect your heart, mimic multiple sclerosis, and cause movement disorders in some people. Lyme headache, major fatigue, and herxheimer reactions can come on without warning, usually from stress. So it is best to avoid stressful situations, if you have it.
Lyme, CT
The city of Lyme, Connecticut is how it got its name, which was just across the Long Island Sound. The jury is out on whether Lyme is natural or man made, escaped from an infectious disease lab.
Know Before Your Go
Be advised before you visit here, of the hazards that are present, and how to be prepared. Mosquitoes and ticks are very common on Fire Island. Wearing bug repellent such as Deet, while visiting here, is recommended given the situation here with ticks, and mosquitos, which carry a host of diseases. Do your due diligence if you decide to visit here.
Ticks
Ticks are small invertebrates in the spider family, which feed on blood. There are three species on Fire Island, the deer tick or black legged tick, the dog tick and the lone star tick. They are found most often in the back dune and forested areas of the island, amongst the tall grasses and shrubs. They normally feed on the blood of rodents, red fox, white-tailed deer, and birds. Temperature and humidity influences their level of activity. Mice and rats are “reservoir” hosts who carry the bacterium that causes Lyme disease. Deer ticks are most active in spring, early summer, and autumn. They carry several diseases: Ehrlichiosis, babesia, and anaplasmosis. You can learn more about these Lyme Disease co-infections at lymedisease.org.
Salt Water Mosquitoes
Salt marsh mosquitoes are prevalent throughout the summer months. They are especially active at dawn and dusk, along with after it rains, and when they hatch, within 7 to 10 days of a full or new moon. Check the lunar cycle to estimate a large salt marsh mosquito hatch and try your best to avoid it. Learn how to avoid mosquitoes here.
Maps
You can download this map to use offline of your visit on alltrails, though the actual trails I walked were not named here. The beach is the main trail for this island.
Camping on a National Seashore
Fire Island is a place of shifting sandbars, rip currents, and many hazards which are practically invisible, such as ticks. I camped here in my childhood, taking the ferry from Patchogue to Watch Hill, an area that was since decimated by Hurricane Sandy. The camp sites in those days were on a lottery system. Today there is still camping available here on Fire Island, with twenty sites available to book at Watch Hill.
Backcountry Camping
There are also backcountry camping opportunities here on the island, for backpackers who desire an even quieter and more natural setting.
Leave No Trace
Just be sure to come prepared and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep the wilderness pristine for future hikers.
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I hope you enjoyed reading this, and it is helpful in knowing what to expect, should you decide to visit here.
About me
I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and now California girl (transplant) who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!
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Disclaimer: The work on this blog is my opinion and my opinion alone and I am not responsible for the outcome if someone were to apply these thoughts to their own life. All text and photography copyright 2023 by Serafina, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers’ usage of the ideas and opinions presented in the blog, are at their own risk. Be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, surfing, walking, cooking, and other activities, which may take place indoors or outdoors. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from reading the blog, or partaking in any activity mentioned in the blog. Read the blog, and use its ideas, if you so desire, at your own risk.
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