Yosemite is a breathtaking place, made famous by people like John Muir, and documented for all the world to see by photographers such as Ansel Adams. You will want to get your camera ready, and have an extra phone battery. The journey into Yosemite begins at Tunnel View.
Taking your first glimpse of the valley, you already can see waterfalls in the distance.
No matter the season you visit, Yosemite Valley always has something beautiful to behold.
What To Expect
Summer is the peak time for visitors, so bring your patience, and expect a crowd. Also, be prepared to walk. We parked a mile from the nearest shuttle, about halfway between El Capitan and the Yosemite Lodge. Also, we got lucky. Someone was leaving, and we did not find parking anywhere else, in the entire valley. The lots fill early at peak times, sometimes as early as 7 or 8am, so be prepared for that. Come in winter, and the crowds thin out. The options for hiking also dwindle, as most trails remain closed, due to dangerous snow and ice.
The Merced will be chilly in all but summer, ruling out swimming, and rafting in the off-season.
Terrain
Depending on the trail you choose, you can expect at least the first section of it to be paved. The Mist Trail remains paved for the first 1/2 mile to the bridge, after which it is dirt, and rock. The trails are well maintained, but can include maneuvering about jagged, and loose rock. Sometimes there are more stone steps than you would like. The Mist Trail is known for its tall stone steps, which can also be wet and slippery.
Chasing Waterfalls
If waterfalls are what you seek, you find them here. Take either the Mist Trail, the Clark Trail, the Panorama Trail, or perhaps the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail, which is not only steep, but has sheer drop offs, to see some of the most breathtaking falls in all of California.
Where We Hiked
I had come to Yosemite to experience all this beauty with my boyfriend, continuing our summer camping and road trip. We started our day hiking from the parking spot we found, along the Merced River, just past Camp 4 and the Yosemite Lodge. The Valley Loop Trail along the river was damaged, muddy, and washed out in areas, due to recent rains. There were gnarled logs, branches, and the like, where the trail used to be. We ended up walking along the road at times, for this reason.
Horsetail Falls
As we walked on toward the Yosemite Lodge Shuttle stop, we passed by one of the viewing areas for the famous wintertime firefall. Horsetail Falls, is a wintertime waterfall, that sometimes flows, and when it does, photographers, and waterfall chasers alike, flock to the valley to marvel at its beauty.
Meadows Views
We followed the trail for a ways before reaching a beautiful Leidig Meadow, with Sentinel Dome towering high above us, before passing the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail, and the rock climbers camp spot of choice, Camp 4.
There are a series of named boulders along this trail, one of which is named Wine Boulder, a boulder begging to be climbed (if your experienced of course). Soon winding our way past this boulder maze, found ourselves at the park shuttle stop, luckily boarding a shuttle, headed for Happy Isles, our trailhead for the hike.
Several Options
We began by crossing the bridge over the Merced. The water was flowing at full capacity, meaning falling in could be deadly, since it was a raging rapid.
Along the way up the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls, you have two options. You can continue on the Mist Trail, or alternatively take the Clark Trail, which is much longer, yet more of a gradual climb. We heard the Mist Trail might be closed. Most people seem to opt for the shorter, scenic Mist Trail given the choice. It is by no means an easier trail being shorter, but quite strenuous.
Staying Flexible
Today we would make our way to the footbridge at Vernal Falls. The forecast was set to be in the upper 80’s in the valley. Not knowing how we would be feeling, hiking in such high heat, and humidity, we were decidedly playing it by ear. My boyfriend and hiking partner was still recovering from some prior extreme hikes we did, backpacking in the wilderness together, so the last thing we needed was to overdo it.
Playing it By Ear
So Half Dome and the like were off the table for today. We don’t enjoy hiking when it’s hot that much. Call us spoiled Southern Californians, but we prefer cooler temps. When the temperature rises, so does your heart rate, which will make you feel exhausted quicker. It’s important to place your health and well being above getting to a particular destination, while out hiking. Sometimes it’s simply about the journey not the destination. I’m sure John Muir would agree.
The Vernal Falls Footbridge
After making it to the Vernal Falls footbridge we found the Mist Trail was closed until 3pm, due to a rockfall, which are a common hazard here in the valley. The steep sheer cliffs of granite will calve off during times of temperature fluctuations, and tumble down with a high velocity. If you happen to be caught in one of these, there is no right or wrong way to deal with it. It could happen very fast, and rocks don’t follow a straight path.
The Clark Trail
Lacking beta, we decided to speak with a few hikers coming in the opposite direction off the Clark Trail. All had reached Vernal Falls, and professed it was open. So we proceeded up the Clark Trail, which takes you to Clark Point.
It was unpaved, and mostly shaded much of the way. As we neared Clark Point, I remember one particular granite wall, which was exposed to the afternoon sun.
This wall honestly felt like an oven. That was the worst of it, as far as this trail goes. It was easy to follow, and before we knew it, we were at the turn off for Vernal Falls.
Clark Point
We stood there at Clark Point a moment, marveling at all that was before us. It was worth every bit of climbing to see all this. Just as I thought we were ready to proceed down to the Vernal Falls, having made it much farther than we thought we would today, my boyfriend surprises me, stating he wants to go on to Nevada Falls. This would have made it an 8 mile round trip hike, not a 5 miler if we were to just head down the Mist Trail at that point. Usually I am the one with the inexhaustible energy who wants to do the longest, challenging hikes. He is usually ok with a “normal hike,” of 5-6 miles, and calling it a day.
Today I was feeling exhausted, especially with the heat. Check out my tan, or shall I say sunburn. I still agreed to go on to Nevada, because I love adventure. I was so glad we did.
Little did I know I would find rainbow falls. Does it get any better?
Onward
Nevada Falls was already visible in the distance. Even from afar it was possibly one of the most breathtaking waterfalls I have ever seen in my life. How could we not go? We hiked along drawing ever closer to the waterfall. The trail narrowed, and we came to a section with caution tape. It was paved in flagstones, and water was pouring all over the cliffside. It was not a waterfall, but glacial meltwater. So entered through this natural shower of sorts, getting pretty drenched. I took off my shoes, since I am not a fan of sloshy wet sneakers. I had brought a quick dry towel, and dried my feet, before putting my shoes back on. I was hoping there was not too much of this, since I was holding us up. You just have to do what works for you. I just enjoy hiking with dry feet.
Nevada Falls
Nevada Falls was a raging waterfall like none I had ever seen. We stood on the bridge, watching the sheer volume of water passing underneath.
It was beautiful and also frightening. Just as I started to ponder this, I glanced over, to my horror, to see a young man, standing on the very edge of a rock, jutting directly over the falls. One misstep, and it would be certain death. His girlfriend stood there taking photos of him.
Only Safe Selfies
Later I spotted the same girl alone on the trail, taking photos. I started wondering where he went. Nobody wants to see anyone die in Yosemite. That would ruin the whole experience for everyone, so if you feel inclined to risk your life for waterfall photos, please don’t for the sake of everyone else trying to enjoy this marvelous place, free of needless tragedies.
Into the Mist
We continued on down the Mist Trail, which was very steep, and had lots of stone steps. There were beautiful rainbows in the mist of Nevada Falls. We entered a forest briefly, and got some reprieve from the heat once again.
The day was waning, but we were making good time, as we crossed the bridge just before Vernal Falls.
The Emerald Pool
We found ourselves staring at the Emerald Pool, which on a calmer day, is a place of recreation, swimming, and sliding down the smooth rock. Today these emerald green waters were filled with gnarly branches. Again, you would not want to fall in here. That might be inescapable, given the high flow of the water, after the spring melt off. California had thirteen atmospheric rivers in 2023, creating one of the highest snowpacks on record. These waterfalls were flowing as they were, because of this fact.
Vernal Falls
Our final stop on this day of chasing waterfalls was Vernal Falls. On my first trip to Yosemite, about 20 years ago, I remember only making it partway up the Mist Tail, before turning back. So finally I was seeing this waterfall in all its glory, from the viewing area above it.
My boyfriend has been to Yosemite and on this hike countless times, and considers it a very special place for him. Sharing this day together, and these waterfalls, really meant something, for both of us.
On down the Mist we went, down the sketchiest part, which is the .25 mile of trail below Vernal Falls.
It is steep, narrow, slippery, and a bit dangerous. People have slipped off it to their deaths. So keep that in mind, since it’s not Disneyland.
We made it back to the car, on the shuttle, by dark, bidding Yosemite adieu.
Taking the Clark Trail
In retrospect, I recommend taking the Clark Trail to Clark Point if you have time, even if you have the option to take the Mist Trail. Had the Mist Trail been open, we would have missed out on this beautiful trail. Hiking to Nevada Falls, and then to Vernal, seemed to work out well, but you be the judge. The one caveat would be that going down the Mist Trail did require a whole lot of downclimbing, so for this reason, I might do this loop, in the opposite direction, next time I visit.
Granite Domes
Throughout the valley are endless granite domes and outcroppings, some of which are more famous than others. The most popular by far is Half Dome. Another famous destination is Clark Point, where you have a clear view of three beautiful domes. In the southern section and high country of Yosemite are Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome. Along Tioga Road, you enter the alpine zone, of 9,000 feet, where you will find Pothole Dome, and Lembert Dome
Longer Day Hikes
Some of the most sought after hikes in the park are also the longest. Though they may not lead you to a waterfall, they have sweeping views, all along the way. The trail leading to Clouds Rest, takes you to a jagged high point in the park, where the trail drops off steeply from both sides. This is not only strenuous, it is a long hike, and is not for beginners.
Lakes and Rivers
Other features of Yosemite that make it great are lakes, and rivers. The mighty Merced flows through the valley floor. Along Tioga Pass, the Tuolumne River meanders along. Cathedral Lakes is a popular hike.
Crowd Factor
The most crowds were along the Mist Trail heading to the footbridge. Beyond that, they seemed to thin out considerably. Even at the top of the waterfall, the crowds were pretty thin. There was consistent traffic on all the trails. The most crowds will be in the valley, since more people come to admire and camp in Yosemite, than go hiking. The farther out you go, and the more strenuous the climb, the less crowds you can expect to see. Half Dome, would be one exception, as it is crowded most of the year, when the weather is fair.
Wildlife
The Mule Deer of Yosemite do not seem to feel that threatened by visitors. They will walk relatively close to you. Bears have been a burden to hikers here in Yosemite. Be sure to abide by the strict rules. If you are leaving food in the car in the daytime, it must be secured in a bear proof cooler. If it is nighttime, it is mandatory to stow food in bear lockers or in a hotel room, not in your car. If you cannot accomplish either, then it is best to either toss the food out than risk a fine.
Keep it Wild
Just about any kind of wildlife native to the Sierras can be found here, since it is the wilderness. Just remember to keep it wild, keep your distance, never approaching, or feeding wildlife. Bear Spray is prohibited in Yosemite. There has never been an attack here, but have been nuisance bears, sneaking off with backpacks, and food. Just because it’s daytime, does not mean its ok to leave food unattended.
Rating
The 4.5 mile hike to Vernal Falls is considered strenuous, as is the 9 mile hike to Nevada Falls. Heading to the footbridge just below Vernal Falls, is a good starting point, to see if you feel ready or not. There is about 500 feet of gain, within a ½ mile, just to the bridge. Mirror Lake, or Lower Yosemite Falls are less strenuous options, if you find the climb on the Mist Trail is a bit too much.
What to Bring
I recommend bringing the 10 Essentials of Hiking with you on any day hike, if you’re not certain what is best based on your own past experience. I brought a small daypack with a 2 liter hydration sleeve. I also brought snacks, first aid, a sun hat, and sunglasses, along with electrolytes. I always carry a whistle to alert people if I need assistance, or to potentially scare off critters that try to approach me.
The Mist Trail
The hike to Vernal and Nevada Falls can be wet and misty. You may want to wear water shoes, or bring extra socks, or a poncho for the mist. It really depends on your own personal needs, and the season you’re hiking. In summer, the cool mist can feel nice, but in early spring or late fall, wet clothes could lead to hypothermia.
Lodging
There is not much around Yosemite National Park, but even more scenic beauty. There are only just a few hotels in the park, and campgrounds tend to book up the day sites become available, about six months in advance. So it’s best to book your lodgings in advance, and not expect to find a walk up reservation at any of the hotels in the park, or the campgrounds. Outside the park, with a short drive there are a few vrbo and airbnb cabins, a handful of small motels (some kinda creepy), and even a nicer Lodge and Spa, which could run you an average of $400-500 a night in the peak summer season. So if you’re on a budget, the town of Fresno about 1.5 hours away, has more budget priced accommodations. Try to book your trip in advance, and plan accordingly.
Backcountry Camping
Initially I planned to camp in the backcountry in Yosemite. This requires camping one air mile from a road, along with other restrictions, such as the use of a Bear Can for food storage. I booked a trailhead off Glacier Point Road, to start my hike at McGurk Meadow. This is a good trailhead for those not wanting a strenuous climb. A week prior to the trip I was made aware via an email that my reservation would not be honored. I was not told what to do otherwise. So I wasted a lot of time trying to figure all this out, before finally getting the answers through the Yosemite Conservancy.
Backcountry Reservations
If you consider backcountry reservations, then it could be. They cost very little, and are non-refundable. For $20 you can camp up to a few weeks in the backcountry. Each trailhead has a quota for the number of people per day, who may reserve a permit. One caveat is you may be forced to choose a different trailhead last minute, if the trailhead you chose closes for some reason, or the road is closed, so be forewarned. Backcountry camping requires carrying all your gear into the wilderness. All this gear is expensive, and requires some thought to figure out how it all works. The last thing you would want to do is just wing it in the backcountry, just to save a few bucks on hotels. You will be surrounded by wildlife, and most likely nobody will be around. Also, be sure to check in before 11am at the permit office, the day of your reservation, or risk losing it.
Check out the backcountry trailhead options in Yosemite here.
Garmin In-Reach
I recommend a Garmin In-Reach device if you plan to hike far into the backcountry in Yosemite, or go backpacking. When all is said and done, unless you backpack a lot, the cost of all the gear, Garmin, and Garmin subscription, can put you out thousands of dollars. In this sense a hotel room is much cheaper, for someone who just wants to visit Yosemite, and does not intend to do much camping otherwise.
Afternoon Storms
During storms, the last place you want to be are granite domes like Half Dome, or high points, like Clouds Rest. The sierras are known for putting on a show. Afternoon rain, thunder, and lightning storms are common here. Even the most beautiful sunny warm day can give way to a treacherous storm. Many people have died here in Yosemite, and many of those deaths were due to lightning strikes. So if you plan to visit here, and take on Half Dome, plan accordingly. The time they usually start is between 1 and 3pm.
Overall
I truly felt a sense of renewal post hike, to Vernal and Nevada Falls. I had hiked a total of 10 miles in a day, including the time spent walking to and from my car to the shuttle bus. I love places like Yosemite, since so many people can come and marvel at natures beauty, at God’s creation. I felt an intense sense of gratitude, and of peace, getting to experience all that is Yosemite. I know if you manage to find yourself here, you may too experience this sense of awe, and amazement. Yosemite is one of a kind, and a true masterpiece.
“Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.
– John Muir
Wash your spirit clean.”
Leave No Trace
Just be sure to come prepared and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep the wilderness pristine for future hikers.
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I hope you enjoyed reading this, and it is helpful in knowing what to expect, should you decide to visit here.
About me
I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!
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Disclaimer: The work on this blog is my opinion and my opinion alone and I am not responsible for the outcome if someone were to apply these thoughts to their own life. All text and photography copyright 2023 by Serafina, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers’ usage of the ideas and opinions presented in the blog, are at their own risk. Be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, surfing, walking, cooking, and other activities, which may take place indoors or outdoors. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from reading the blog, or partaking in any activity mentioned in the blog. Read the blog, and use its ideas, if you so desire, at your own risk.
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