On December 16th, 2022, I set off to hike the Art Smith trail, after reading about its beauty on trail reports posted on alltrails. I only hiked about 3 miles on this particular visit. But I vowed to come back, since it’s one of the most scenic trails I have visited in the Palm Desert Area. I hope this guide helps you plan your hike better.
About The Trail
The Art Smith Trail is about 16 miles long, and takes you into the Santa Rosa Mountains Wilderness, high above Palm Desert. It’s rated as moderate, and is a class 1 hiking trail. The trail is a relatively narrow single track popular with hikers, mountain bikers, and equestrians.
Parking
The parking is free alongside Highway 74, aka the Pines to Palms Scenic Byway, a destination in itself. As you proceed up Hwy 74, the parking lot will be off to the right. There is another parking area across the street, for the popular Randall Henderson Trail, if this one happens to be full.
Once parked at the Art Smith Trailhead, there are actually several different hikes you can take from this parking area. Off to the left, is Carrizo Canyon, a 3 mile round trip hike into a box canyon, which is known to have Bighorn Sheep lingering about.
The Trailhead
In order to reach Art Smith Trail, you would walk to the right of the parking area, and along the berm, until you spot a sign for Art Smith. You will follow the sign through a wash, and come to Indian Canyon. It was closed at the time I visited, but is another interesting hike to check out when it reopens.
Next you will cross Indian Canyons palm filled wash, and the trail may sort of disappear, so you will have to do your best, walking parallel to the berm.
A side note would be that this may be muddy right after a rain, but not so much for the remainder of the hike.
On the other side of this canyon you will eventually notice a large rectangular metal sign in the distance, for Art Smith Trail, off to the left of the berm. The trails throughout Palm Springs, Palm Desert, and La Quinta all have these signs, which are all handmade, and pretty neat. You make a left, up the hillside on Art Smith, and will begin a series of steep switchbacks.
Steep Ridgeline or Gradual Canyon Wash?
It’s important to take the weather into account for a hike such as this, as it will be very sunny, and exposed. This hike includes a mix of steady upward climbing, and descents, so if you’re already starting to feel it, you may want to turn back, to consider something more shaded, and gradual as nearby Carrizo Canyon.
The First Ridge
If you do make it up to the first ridge, about a mile or so in, the hike will already be worth it, as you look out over Palm Desert, and get to experience 360 degree mountain views. You will have a series of climbs and descents on this trail. You will come to a large boulder, and see Hopalong Cassidy, which is another much shorter trail, that weaves its way though the hills in Palm Desert.
About Art Smith
Art Smith was an equestrian, like many of those who developed the trails around Palm Desert, and the desert areas. We can thank him, and people like Boo Hoff, for their hard work, carving these trails out of the landscape, in a way that made sense.
The Terrain
The trail not only gives you amazing views, it was designed in such a way that it thoroughly blends into the landscape, so you cannot really see it from the town below. The trail twists, winds, and takes you on many switchbacks. There are plenty of desert plants, and cacti. There were also numerous spots to stop and take a break, atop a large boulder.
Deciding How Far To Hike
However far you decide to hike along Art Smith Trail, you likely won’t be disappointed in either the challenge of it, the scenery, nor the variety of its terrain. It’s likely to not be very crowded, since the mere length of 16 miles, does seem to deter people from considering it, on a visit to Palm Desert. So you may get the trail to yourself.
The Entire 16 Miles?
Should you continue on, you will eventually notice another palm grove, as the trail winds through the foothills. You will round a bend, about halfway, and enjoy an amazing closeup of Mount San Jacinto in the distance. Afterward, you will find yourself hiking through a wash, eventually reaching a picnic area 8.5 miles in, at Dunn Rd, which is the end of the Art Smith Trail. Congratulate yourself, if you made it this far. You now simply hike back from this point.
The Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit this trail is definitely the cooler months of December to March. In general the desert is tolerable from November to Early June. The summer months of Late June to Late October, tend to be very hot. So checking the weather report is crucial before setting out on trail.
Planning a 16 Mile Hike
In order to complete the entire trail, you will need to know your pace, and also give yourself ample daylight. Starting early, at sunrise, is recommended. Don ‘t forget the 10 Essentials of Hiking, especially if you plan on hiking the entire trail.
Tips for Staying Hydrated
Always turn around, when you have drunk 50% of your water, no matter how far you want to go. There are no water sources along the trail, and it’s best to bring more than you think you will need. A hiker who has a pace of 2 mph, and drinks a half liter per hour, during winter, might bring at least 4 liters (4 liters for 8 hours) with them on a 16 mile hike.
Doubling Up
A hiker could need twice as much water for a spring or summertime hike, as a wintertime one. Hiking in the baking hot midday sun, when it is above 75-80 degrees out, can feel like 95 degrees, since the golden colored decomposed granite of the desert trails reflects heat intensely.
What is My Pace?
Also be sure to take your own pace into account, planning how much water will be needed, along with weather. A 16 mile hike that takes one person with a pace of 2mph, a total of 8 hours to complete, might take you 12 hours, if your pace is slower, or you take longer breaks, possibly to just enjoy the scenery.
You can use alltrails+ to record yourself on hikes with similar gain to this one, and get an idea beforehand.
Desert Hiking at Night
Remember, the desert at night has creatures who come out at night. Venomous snakes like sidewinders, unlike rattlesnakes, are not docile, and will attack, going at speeds of 20 mph. Having a headlamp will help you find your way back on trail, but certainly will not deter snakes.
No One Plans to Fail Many Fail to Plan
Unless you want to find yourself in the wilderness at night, with no cell service, it’s best to be serious when planning any lengthy hike, such as Art Smith Trail.
What to Bring
If you’re going in the wintertime, which is the most popular time to hike in the area, there are a few things you should know to be prepared.
Desert Temps
The desert temps can fluctuate wildly, from the low 40’s in morning and evening, and the 70’s during the day. The sun reflects heat off the golden colored desert trails, intensifying the heat immensely.
Dress in Layers
Dressing in layers of loose, comfortable, breathable clothing is recommended. Wear a sturdy pair of hiking shoes, such as by Merrel. Don’t forget sun protection, such as a hat, or visor, along with sunglasses.
The Seasons
If you’re hiking in spring and fall, you can expect more extremes, erring on the side of warm, to baking hot. Temperatures can hover well into the 100’s from April to May, and October to November.
Summer in the Desert
Come summer time, expect to see just a few or even not one other hiker on the trails here. If being completely alone is your thing, this may be your calling. Not only do the temperatures remain in the upper 90’s and into triple digits, it can be dangerous to hike during these times. If you do go, stick with early mornings, before 9am, for hiking.
Hydration
Lastly, bring more water than you think you will need. The desert will dehydrate you quickly. Also, don’t forget that hand lotion, and lip balm. A handheld mister will keep you cool for a short while, if you get stuck in the full sun of the desert heat unexpectedly.
Maps
Don’t forget a paper map, or a downloaded one. I will always recommend upgrading to alltrails+ since you can download offline maps. That is crucial when exploring the desert, since cell signals are usually low or nonexistent.
About me
I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!
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Disclaimer: The work on this blog is my opinion and my opinion alone and I am not responsible for the outcome if someone were to apply these thoughts to their own life. All text and photography copyright 2022 by Serafina, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers’ usage of the ideas and opinions presented in the blog, are at their own risk. Be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, surfing, walking, cooking, and other activities, which may take place indoors or outdoors. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from reading the blog, or partaking in any activity mentioned in the blog. Read the blog, and use its ideas, if you so desire, at your own risk.
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