I went for a scenic hike at one of my favorite coastal bluffs, at San Onofre State Beach.
It’s a kind of strange location to find a state park, sandwiched between a border patrol checkpoint to the east of it, the remnants of a nuke plant to the north of it, and the huge expanse of Camp Pendleton, to the south and east of it.
Located partway between Orange County, and San Diego County, it’s sort of in a world of its own.
It’s part campground, part surf spot.
It’s a place to walk your dogs on a short trail to the beach, or have a little quiet time, sitting on one of the many giant cobblestones, strewn throughout the beach.
Its a place to get away from suburbia to, only a few minutes drive south of the nearest town, of San Clemente.
I’ve been coming here a long time, but I would not say I am a regular.
It’s the kind of place I visit on a hot summer day, when all the other beaches are packed, for a more low key experience, or in this case in early spring.
In summer the campground rarely will fill, except on weekends, and in July. The rest of the year it’s relatively empty.
The campsites are pared down, and it has a dingy, unglamourous vibe. Vanlifers like this place alot, and there are many people who seem to live here, yet every night drive out to who knows where.
The campsites are basically just dirt, a bbq, and don’t even have nice firepits. You have a view of the freeway, and border patrol, depending on where you site is.
These are reasons, it’s become second choice of people coming to the area to camp, unlike San Clemente State Beach, with its posh vintage trailers for rent, and hookup sites for RV’s.
There is just something different about this place. It has an overly neglected, lost kind of vibe.
A few years ago one of the trails collapsed, becoming a victim of erosion. The ever changing landscape of coastal bluffs, is always experiencing a state of change.
They are perpetually falling ever more towards the sea.
A new canyon has opened up, inching its way closer to the parking area, and the trails.
One could unknowingly step off the edge, since there were no railings, or warnings of the drop off.
I stumbled upon one spot that was was completely unfenced, fresh and newly collapsed, with a thin ribbon of caution tape across.
Of the five remaining trails, all have different charms about them.
Some trails are busier and more popular than others, mostly with surfers.
It’s not really a place to do a proper “hike,” since all the trails take about 15 minutes to complete, unless of course you include the beach, and create a loop.
That was my plan today, to hike in a loop, down the beach at low tide.
You need defintely need a low tide to make this work.
Any other tide, and you will be traversing large cobblestones the entire way.
That would be very cumbersome, not to mention taking 2-3 times as long, while hopefully not twisting an ankle.
I have done it both ways, and low tide is my method of choice for hiking past the bluffs here.
You get the best view, and the most variety in your hike too. You get to see the bluffs, beachcomb a bit, and choose the trails to go up, and down to the beach from.
I started at trail one, the closest to the power plant.
This trail always seems to have the most traffic, and people around.
I headed up the short steep hill to the trail, taking off south towards a lifeguard chair, from some bygone era, hauled up there, but no longer in use.
Afterwards, I began my descent on a steep hard packed mud trail, not the kind you would want to take after a rain.
So many different rocks of every color glistened along the way. It had me wondering if any of them might be gemstones.
I saw a purple one, some green ones, some silvery shiny ones, a few jet black ones, and some unusual crystal like ones.
The geology of California really does vary from beach to beach, and San Onofre is no exception.
I am no geologist, but I always wonder what the story is behind the landscapes around me, and the bluffs here are no exception.
They reveal the passage of time, which is interesting in itself, with their many stratified layers.
A dark layer is meant to mark a volcanic eruption.
This dark sand in the photo, is stained black from the offshore oil deposits, that California is known for.
The red clay soil of the beachside cliffs are in a constant state of erosion, slowly withering away.
The surf is relatively crowded today for a weekday.
There are very few people lounging on the shore. A few dogs are having the time of their lives running around freely.
Beaches like this, with their remote feel, allow dog owners to give their pups some off leash time.
There are rules against it, but I see people just taking the risk anyway, so their dogs can exercise.
I am all for dog beaches here, as long as people pick up after them, and the dogs are non-aggressive.
When the sand is hard packed at low tide, walking on it is a breeze, except dodging the occasional sneaker wave.
One of the other things I love about low tide, is what it leaves behind, and what is uncovered.
There was an entire tree half submerged in the sand, reaching out like the mast of a shipwreck, just a few branches of it exposed, reaching for the sky.
In the distance I see what looks like a paddleboard, and I find out it is a giant SUP board for multiple people, which is more of a novelty item.
It is being carried by several people on their heads.
Today’s loop would take me to the last lifeguard chair to the south, and up one of the last trails, back up to the long parking lot.
I ventured about 2.5 miles in either direction, for a 2 1/2 hours, and 6 mile loop hike.
Listening to the birds, the peaceful waves, checking out the little surf huts the surfers have pieced together from driftwood, makes this one the more unique and special hikes in Southern California, with so much to take in, and see.
You strangely don’t hear any freeway noise from the beach beneath the hundred foot bluffs.
I also forgot to pay much attention to the nuke plant in the distance.
This place is about peace, and quiet for me, like a retreat from everyday life.
Sometimes if there is not a named route, it’s ok to create your own, and that’s what I did.
I will always come back here, to sit on a bench, read a book, maybe surf, take a walk, or walk my dog.
I never regret driving a little out of the way, to sit on a quiet beach, watching the waves, and have a little time to myself.
Until next time San Onofre Bluffs.
About me
I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to go exploring. Hope you will get outside today, breathe some fresh air, and be happy!
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Disclaimer: The work on this blog is my opinion and my opinion alone and I am not responsible for the outcome if someone were to apply these thoughts to their own life. All text and photography copyright 2021 by Serafina, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers’ usage of the ideas and opinions presented in the blog, are at their own risk. Be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, surfing, walking, cooking, and other activities, which may take place indoors or outdoors. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from reading the blog, or partaking in any activity mentioned in the blog. Read the blog, and use its ideas, if you so desire, at your own risk.
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