I took a hike in Crystal Cove on a beautiful sunny fall morning in California. It was not the first time I had been on this trail.The once green and golden grasses were now dry, and crumbling, with most of the springtime blooms gone. Just a few drought tolerant varieties, were thriving in hot sun, drinking in the morning mist.
Crystal Cove State Park is almost 3000 acres, and was established in 1979. It is the site of two springs, and there is plenty of evidence of the native tribes who resided here prior to settlement by Europeans. Much of the landscape in the park remains fairly pristine, similar to the way it did 1000 years ago.
I started my journey by driving towards Crystal Cove State Park, north on Highway 1. I spotted the turnoff for El Moro Canyon, which is just before the shopping center with Trader Joes, by El Morro Elementary School. It’s easy to miss it, since there is no signage. I stayed straight on the road, before veering off the left of the entrance station. I parked at the trailhead, by the nature center. This is a different entrance than most visitors know, if they have been here before. There is also the Los Trancos entrance, and Reef Point, by the shopping center…with Trader Joes, which happens to be my favorite spot to fill up on snacks.
This entrance is also a way to access the campground, and El Moro Cove, a beach with access through an often waterlogged tunnel. This was the site of an old trailer park, popular with surfers, which has come and gone, taken away by eminent domain. If you want to be closer to the beach, by all means stay to the right, proceed through the kiosk, and down the hill past the campground, and you will see it.
Trailhead
The trail I hiked on this particular morning, was called “No Dogs.” The name was interesting, since I wondered if the person who named it had something against our furry friends.Would you believe I saw some dogs? You begin the trail at the end of the parking lot. Here is the Crystal Cove State Park Trail map.
The trail starts ascending steeply for some time, until reaching Poles trail. This is a very steep trail, and probably the steepest in the entire park. You have now gained about 550 feet, and if you have not hiked in awhile, you may want to stop here, to take a breather.
The trail happened to be very uncrowded when I went. It is however one of the most popular trails in the park along with Moro Canyon, and Moro Ridge. I proceeded down Poles trail to El Moro Canyon Trail. The steepness of Poles trail attracts mountain bikers, so be aware. Its tempting to blast the tunes, but when you’re sharing a trail, you need to look out for them, or risk a collision.
Once I reached El Moro Canyon, I made a right. Once there, it was much greener, and lush than on the exposed ridge of No Dogs. The trail is very wide, and drops off in areas on the right, to a creek bed. I have seen large snakes on this trail before, so be aware. They tend to be most active from 12-3pm as a rule, in the midday sun. So that’s another great reason to hike early, or hike late. Less sunburns, and less chance of meeting a snake! Forgot to mention less crowds too. Eventually you will come to an interesting wooden and steel bridge, crossing the creek and another parking area. Take the trail to the right, which is a connector, and it will take you back to the nature center where you started.
Option two, is to proceed down to the beach, and soak up the sun. If you choose to hike down to the beach, then the trail ends at the lower parking lot. You can use the restrooms here, and proceed through the tunnel onto the beach.
You have the option of a swim, or simply walk the beach in any direction you desire. There are 3 miles of beach here to explore. To your left are some tall dynamic sea cliffs, with a home perched on a cliff. This one belongs to old lady Irvine, heir to the Irvine fortune.
On a big SSE hurricane swells surfers may be out at the cove, and otherwise it’s usually a fairly calm protected beach. The summertime brings a lot of swimmers, and bodysurfers here.
Were you to tread north about 2 miles, you will eventually reach the historic Crystal Cove Cottages, which sit right on the sand. They are a reminder of a bygone era, in California beach culture.
There are plenty of tide pools along the way, below the towering coastal bluffs, and you will likely spot your fair share of shorebirds. The kingfisher with its long bill, likes to scurry about in the tide, pecking into the sand in search of a meal.
Gazing out to sea, you may even notice a few dolphins, or a whale breaching, especially during migration season. Crystal Cove has a protected underwater park offshore, that attracts divers, who like to explore the coral reefs in search of marine life. So there is something for everyone here.
Tip: Bring at least a half liter of water per 3 miles, or hour of hiking. Be sure to also “camel up,” and drink water, before a hike so you have less water to carry. Pop an electrolyte or two, such as Nuun, which are sugar free.
Cost: $15 per day or free with an Annual California State Parks Pass
I’m Serafina! I’m a writer and California girl who loves to get outside and go exploring. Hope you will get outside, and be happy!
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